1: Is there a Supercharger system available for my car?
2: How much is a Supercharger system?
3: How much horsepower will it produce?
4: What kind of 0-60 and 1/4 mile times can I expect?
5: Is the Supercharger system emissions legal?
6: Can I install it myself?
7: Will my factory warranty be void?
8: How does the Supercharger affect the engine life?
9: Do I have to maintain the Supercharger after it's installed?
10: Are any gauges required for installation?
11: Do Chip and Cam upgrades help with the Supercharger?
12: Do intake, header, and exhaust upgrades help the
13: What parts, other than the Supercharger, do you recommend?
14: How does the Supercharger compare to a Turbo system and does
it need an intercooler?
Q: Is there a Supercharger system available for my car? Back
A: Following is a list of systems currently available. Since we are
always working on new fitments please refer to the Supercharger page for your
make of car for the most up to date information.
88-91 CRX, CIVIC SI & EX Only
92-95 Civic, Del Sol All Models except VX
96-00 Civic. Del Sol All Models except HX
99-00 Civic SI, Del Sol VTEC without ABS
97-01 Honda Prelude base & SH
94-01 Integra, GSR and Non-VTEC
97-01 Integra, Type R
00-01 Ford Focus 2.0L Zetec
00-01 Ford Escape 2.0L Zetec- In development
00-01 Chrysler PT Cruiser- In development
Q: How much is a Supercharger system? Back to Top
A: Prices vary depending on the vehicle year, make and model. To check
availability and prices please contact one of our Distributors.
Q: How much horsepower will it produce? Back to Top
A: We make systems for many engine sizes and configurations, as well as
and Non-VTEC engines. On average, we gain as much as 50% in horsepower and
as much as 40% in torque with our base system. Some applications may be more
or less. Please refer to our Dyno page for
more specifics on your particular
make and model. Dyno results are representative, and not a guarantee of
performance. Owing to variations in engine condition, additional optional
equipment and installation, your results may vary.
Q: What kind of 0-60 and 1/4 mile times can I expect? Back
A: With so many years, makes, and models it is impossible to try and
list them all. For comparison, in the September 97 issue of Motor Trend
magazine they tested the stock 96-98 Civic EX and the Jackson Racing
Supercharged Civic EX, completely loaded with Power steering, air conditioning,
cruise control, and 16" wheels and tires. The stock Civic ran a 0-60 in 9.3
seconds and the Jackson Racing Supercharged Civic ran a 0-60 in 6.7 seconds. In
the June 97 issue of Road and Track they tested the Jackson Racing Supercharged
Civic against the Greddy Turbo/Intercooled Civic. The Greddy turbo Civic was
loaded with $5500 worth of upgrades not found in their base kit. Included were
intercooler, injector upgrade, thick head gasket, Rebic III, additional boost,
etc. The Jackson Racing Supercharged Civic with no upgrades ran a best time of
15.1 seconds in the 1/4 mile. The Greddy Civic ran a best time of 15.2.
Our '95 completely stock GSR tested by Motor Trend in Oct. '98 ran a 0-60 of 5.7
seconds and 1/4 mile in 14.2 seconds. We have consistently run this same car at
Pomona with consistent 14.0 time slips. The same car with Intake, header,
exhaust, and test pipe ran a 13.4 on slicks with 100 Octane fuel.
You can expect a similar performance increase from your car. On average we
usually improve 0-60 and 1/4 mile times by 1.5-2.0 seconds.
Q: Is the Supercharger system emissions legal? Back to
A: All of our base systems are 50-State emission legal. The CARB
Exemption number will be provided in the system on a sticker that will be
affixed under your hood upon installation.
Q: Can I install it myself? Back to Top
A: If you are mechanically inclined, then installation requires about 8
hours for a SOHC system and about 10 hours on a DOHC. However, if you think you
can't do it, contact your local Honda/Acura/Ford/Mazda dealer or independent
technician and on the Jackson website we have a list of dealers & tuners
near you. It is very straightforward in its design and installation. No cutting
or welding required. Copies of our installation instructions are available on
Q: Will my factory warranty be void? Back to Top
A: It is illegal for a Dealership to void your warranty simply because
you have modifications to your vehicle. It is the Dealerships responsibility to
prove that any modification was the reason for a failure. With that said, some
Dealerships are more performance oriented and willing to work with customers.
It would be our suggestion to consult with your local Dealership regarding
their warranty specifics.
Q: How does the Supercharger affect the engine life? Back
A: Because of our unique bypass valve design, engine life is not
effected. Our system is so efficient and produces such useable torque, that you
are rarely at full throttle for any length of time. When you are at cruise
speed or idle, the bypass allows the engine to breathe normally, no boost. Only
when you depress the throttle aggressively does the bypass close and you have
an instant 6psi of boost. Consequently, with our unique bypass valve and
reasonable boost, engine life is not effected.
Q: Do I have to maintain the Supercharger after it's installed? Back
A: No, unlike a turbo that requires cool down time, or warming up time
because it is using the engines oil, the supercharger is ready to go when you
are. As a matter of regular maintenance you should inspect the charger drive
belt, as you should any drive belt, with every oil change.
Q: Are any gauges required for installation? Back to Top
A: The system is complete and does not use a waste gate so a boost
gauge is not required. Turbo timers are not needed because the blower is a
sealed self-lubricating unit and doesn't require the cool down time. We would
however suggest the installation of our Jackson Racing vacuum/boost gauge as a
good diagnostic tool. Knowing the vacuum and boost level can help you with
system diagnostics. Our air/fuel ratio gauge gives you visual insurance that
your car is running rich when under boost and, as importantly, not running rich
when not accelerating.
Q: Do Chip and Cam upgrades help with the Supercharger? Back
A: These upgrades are not recommended. Chips are made for Normally
Aspirated engines and the fuel map is manipulated to make the car run leaner
and the timing curve is slightly advanced as well. Both of these can and will
be detrimental to any forced induction car. A fully programmable ECU along with
larger injectors however is a different matter all together. We have tried a
number of different cams in our applications as well and have never found
anything better than the stock cams. We have tried Type R cams in our GSR and
lost 10HP. We have tried GSR cams in a Type R and lost 10HP. In our Civic SI we
have tried 3 different sets of cams and lost anywhere from 10-13HP. On one set
however we were able to tune a 13HP loss to only a 3HP loss with cam gears and
3 hours on the dyno. There may be a set of cams out there that works but we
have never found them.
Q: Do intake, header, and exhaust upgrades help the Supercharger? Back
A: This is not easy to answer. On SOHC Civics, the addition of these
items showed little gain. The stock components flow enough CFM that they don't
seem to be a restriction. The intake might help the blower breath better and
not have to 'suck' so hard to get air through the stock airbox. On DOHC
applications the addition of an intake will allow the Supercharger to draw air
in freely and make the power it should. We have found short intakes, such as
our Jackson Racing line, to be better suited to the Supercharger than the long
and skinny cold air intake style. Header and Exhaust both give nominal Hp
increases. The Prelude is the exception. It will benefit from an Intake,
Header, and Exhaust. Our Supercharged Prelude with Intake dyno'd at 212-215HP
at the wheels (see dyno page). We added Header and Exhaust to our Prelude and
HP increased to 234HP at the wheels (see dyno page).
If you are running more than our base 6psi system than intake, header, and
exhaust will all be required for maximum power. Don't forget a cooler
thermostat and cooler spark plugs to ensure safety and keep temps down allowing
you to make good power.
Q: What parts, other than the Supercharger, do you recommend? Back
A: With all installations, with the exception of the Ford Focus, we
suggest a high flow fuel pump. Most pumps are either too tired or don't flow
enough fuel once the Supercharger is installed. One heat range colder of spark
plugs and a cooler thermostat all help in making power and keeping you safely
from the detonation threshold. Other parts such as our Boost Timing Controller,
MAP Controller, and VPAC are a few products that are not necessarily
recommended, but will greatly enhance your Supercharging experience.
Q: How does the Supercharger compare to a Turbo system and does it need an
intercooler? Back to Top
A: Jackson Racing has been in business for over 25 years doing high
performance Honda/Acura tuning and we speak with some sort of authority on the
subject of Turbo vs Supercharged Vs Intercooling. Having built turbo Hondas
since 1976, the first turbo/intercooled CRX's in 1984, and having run the first
turbo/intercooled Honda at the first Battle of the Imports in 1990, we do have
experience with all of the above issues and can speak, without bias, having
done so. And, having seen first hand the long term effects of turbochargers on
daily driven high compression Honda/Acura engines, we have opted to supercharge
For ease of installation, instant power, and low cost, nitrous is the only way
to fly. However, that is if you only want to go drag racing. If you want
everyday nitrous type power, you have to go to forced induction. That is where
the turbo Vs supercharger debate comes in. For absolute peak power where
driveability, turbo lag, emissions, and long engine life does not need to be
taken into consideration, turbo is the only way to go. But, with all things in
this life, there is no free ride. With a properly designed turbo charger system
you have the ability to produce huge amounts of boost and horsepower easily.
The problem with that amount of boost is that once the turbo spools, it goes to
full boost. There is no linear delivery of boost.
Consequently, if the turbo spools at 3000 rpm, you have full boost at a valve
speed that is very slow. So, the turbo has lots of time to create cylinder
pressure on the rods and pistons because of the very long time that the valve
is open. This, in turn, is what creates that huge rush of power when the turbo
spools. This is also what causes so many turbo engine failures. Combine that
with the fact that the compressor sits within 2" of a glowing 1300 degree cast
iron oven, the charge air temperature is always very high. This has created the
myth that anything with forced induction has to be intercooled. If you have
checked the intake temperature of any of the late model O.E. manufactured
intercooled turbos, at the intake manifold, not the outlet of the intercooler,
you will find that the intake air temperature is near 200 degrees, even after
the intercooler. As an example, a test by Sport Compact Car on a new model
Turbo/intercooled German built car, they found the charge air temperature at
the throttle plate to be 206 degrees after the intercooler. You see, the
intercooler is a great thing as long as you have steady air flowing over it. If
you are doing a lot of starts and stops, the effectiveness of the intercooler
is diminished. Secondarily, once the air has been cooled, it has to be routed
back to the intake manifold. That means that it has to come back into the hot
engine compartment and the tubing re-heats the air. Not a lot mind you, but it
still happens. Equally important, you have to fill all of that tubing with
boost, then, when you shift and the bypass blows open, it empties the tubing,
requiring the tubing to be refilled. This is the main cause of poor throttle
response and the classic turbo lag in a intercooled turbo car. Now, keep in
mind that this is all a mute point if you are at speed. But, then you have to
stop. Once you stop, you have to cool the turbo. And heat, being the heart of
the turbo, is also the enemy of the engine. To further the intercooler debate,
let us consider the Ford supercharged/intercooled T-Bird and the GM
(Buick-Pontiac) supercharged/non intercooled cars.
The Ford uses a 90 c.i. Eaton supercharger with as much as 14 psi and an
intercooler. GM uses a 62 c.i Eaton supercharger with 8 psi and no intercooler.
GM mounts their supercharger "Hot Rod" style, on top of the intake manifold as
close to the intake valves as possible, with no intercooler. GM's approach, it
appears, is to run less boost and thereby, less discharge temperature, and
mount the supercharger as close to the intake valve as possible for maximum
driveability. Ford's approach seems to be to go for the maximum effect with an
intercooler. But, to push the charge air all the way out to the grill, through
the intercooler, and back to the intake manifold, requires a larger
supercharger and large quantity of boost. Thus, the 90 c.i. supercharger on the
T-Bird and the 62 c.i. Supercharger on the GM models. In the final analysis,
both engines have an identical horsepower reading. I am sure you are asking
yourself "How can that be?" It is in the systems efficiency.
The GM system appears to be more efficient overall. Less load from the
supercharger, intercooler, and all of the related plumbing equals better
throttle response and an overall better driving package. Now, I am not saying
that an air to water intercooler, mounted close to the engine would not be a
great piece, it is just that in some engine compartments, it is not possible to
package it. So, intercooling is fine if the system is not parasitic by design
with plumbing running everywhere, and the net effect of the intercooler system
in day to day driving, and that is what I am speaking of, is positive.